The moment the boat rounded the headland it was clear that this bay was going to deliver the unbroken golden sand and shallow turquoise waters promised. Two and half hours off Cambodia’s southern coast lies the island of Kaoh Rong Samloem. On its western shore are a dozen wooden bungalows and a bar-restaurant. Welcome to Lazy Beach.
Our days were spent lazing in the sun, swimming, snorkelling, all interspersed with the odd siesta. Our evenings were filled with silly cocktails, card games and excellent food.
We saw phosphorescence in the sea on our way back from the bar, tiny little flashes of yellow-green light that appeared when the water was stirred up (no, it wasn’t the pina coladas). We saw brightly coloured dragonflies, birds that looked like Archeopteryx in flight (think they were Hornbills), bats, crabs and butterflies. We saw some beautiful sunsets.
Despite every item needing to be brought in by boat, the kitchen here turns out a large menu of Cambodian, Asian and Western food. Squid in Kampot Pepper was a highlight, as were Allan’s massive prawns which he joyfully confirms were bigger than the ones in Phuket.
There’s a dark side to every paradise, though, and we discovered that our lonely, vehicle-free beach miles from anywhere was INCREDIBLY NOISY at night! Not with the revelries of other guests or working noises of staff, but the hard-working fishing fleet that plies the waters here and their very-nearly-falling-apart boat engines. Plus, of course, the crashing of waves on the shore just metres from our bed. The maximum sleep we managed during our stay was 5 hours.
This is not a complaint – just an observation. No need for messages of sympathy from those of you living the easy life back at home. Every rose has its thorn. Next time, we’ll bring earplugs. Oh, and seasickness tablets for Chloe, who belatedly discovered that three hours on a choppy swell is not the life for her… (smutty punchlines welcome)