Allan had to get up at 4am to climb one of Mt Batur’s craters, so we had an early night and, miraculously managed to sleep. At 2.30am, I awoke convinced there was something in my hair. Some fuss ensued as I shook my head and pulled my fingers through my hair to rid myself of the fiend. But I was mistaken and, feeling very foolish, we tried for more sleep. At 3am, Allan whispered in my ear, ‘Don’t move!’ and, by the light of the ipod, with my brain imagining all sorts of horrors, removed ‘the thing’. It was a couple of inches long and looked like nothing so much as a shiny, brown woodlouse (it wasn’t a cockroach) and it barely moved. I can only imagine that it was either on the verge of death or completely out of its normal environment, as everything else round here scuttles very fast!