We’re back in Europe and back within easy-ish reach of most of those we know and love. Chloe forms one third of that exclusive dining society, Wine Club (where there is sauvignon blanc and nachos to be tried, there you will find them). The other two thirds are Abdi and Faye and, as the minutes of the last meeting show, after much debate they concluded ‘let’s go to Tirana!’
It was beyond wonderful to see them. We were a bit concerned that we’d forgotten how to spend time with other people but should have remembered how easy they both are to be around. This weekend, Wine Club has four members.
Thinking they might be a bit knackered after their journey, we left the first night open but, troopers to the end, they decided to meet us at a bar in town. A couple of Aperols and a cheese plate? Why not. We all took it easy though – big day tomorrow.
You surely cannot conduct Wine Club on Tour without a trip to a vineyard? On the way, we saw a cow.
Kantina Shehi sits about 10km southeast of Tirana. Just 20 minutes in a cab and there are more mountains, green hills, and picturesque views than you can shake a stick at. We are welcomed by Enver, who shows us round the small estate and explains that, while currently owned by five brothers, not so long ago it was part of a huge state-owned agricultural collective. After the communist regime was ousted in the early 90s, people descended on places like this – literally pulling them up by the roots and exorcising demons in the process. As a result, vineyards like Kantina Shehi are still relatively youthful, though Albania has a long history of winemaking.
The fields and process were fascinating. Our host absolutely loved Faye. And the wine tasting was, in fact, an enormous feast. We tasted two reds and two whites (one award-winning) and all were delicious. The shared favourite was, surprisingly, the chardonnay.
After so much, ahem, culture, an afternoon nap was in order. We met Faye and Abdi at their hotel that evening and, somehow, managed to sip and chat our way through two more bottles of wine.
Saturday dawned hot (again). We had toyed with the idea of visiting the modern history museum based in an old nuclear bunker but a) Abdi definitely does NOT do tunnels and b) he brought champagne. Anyway, what’s time spent with friends for if not to catch up on the latest?
On the way to dinner, we skirted through Skanderbeg Square. One erudite man on a bench, refreshing himself with a can of beer, had a moment of blinding clarity. He stood up and declared to Faye, ‘you are the BEST woman!’ We could only agree.
Because they are political nerds, Abdi and Chloe scooted off to quickly see the Albanian Parliament building before dinner with a brief stop in at the Namazgja Mosque. Sadly, it’s hard to get near the, pretty low key, Parliament without pre-booking a tour and recess has just started. Maybe next time. On the other hand, the mosque is spectacular.
Sunday, and the day of Faye and Abdi’s departure, arrived too soon! We did manage to have a lovely outdoor brunch and, since their flight wasn’t until the early evening, a little more wine and snacks at ours.
As a reintroduction to Europe and socialising, and as a sign we are definitely homeward bound, we couldn’t have chosen better companions. There aren’t enough emojis or gifs in the world, guys!
