Central and south Albania

We move from Tirana to Gjirokaster with a four hour door to door taxi ride. There are buses, but they go from an out of town bus station in Tirana and arrives in one that’s down the hill in Gjirokaster. And, as you’ll discover later in this post, this place has a hill or two.

Our hotel is mixed. The room and terrace are good, the breakfast is not bad (apart from the worst coffee this side of Kyoto – seriously bad) and the location is very handy for sites. They however do mash up Laundry and we’ll come onto the “taxi” they ordered for us to our next destination.

Gjirokaster, like Kruje, is a castle town. We see it from our terrace, we see it from quick explore around town and we see it at breakfast. It’s just there. Chloe agrees to walk up to the castle, and, in a special birthday present for Allan, says that she won’t complain whatsoever on the journey up to the top. She is true to her words. The scenery is stunning with wide views across the valley to the mountains. An immense lamb dinner (paid for by the Hardy brother & sisters – many thanks!) completes a lovely birthday.

Gjirokaster is a beautiful town, although a five minute walk is often way more once you’ve been up and down a couple of hills. It has good restaurants, bakeries and a street bazaar that is just screaming to us to buy lots of brightly coloured bowls – we don’t as backpacks are already absolutely full.

It does however have a dark past. It is the birthplace of Enver Hoxha – the dictator who ran Albania for 41 years until his death in 1985. He ruled with an iron fist where enemies of the state were murdered, land taken, a policy of total isolation to the outside world and even banning beards.

We see some of this with a visit to his original house (it was huge), we see secret tunnels (which were not very secret to the local population) that would hold the great and the good in case of invasion or attack. These tunnels had a special room just for him in case he was in Gjirokaster. We see a video in one of the tunnels is pure North Korea leader adulation of their glorious leader. We also see an old traditional house that a family lost and regained ownership of that happened to be right opposite our hotel. A dark past that we haven’t really found anyone wanting to talk about.

We leave Gjirokaster to go to Sarande by taxi that the hotel organises for us. We soon realise this is not an official taxi and a driver who, after around 30 minutes of driving, proceeds to pass us a pre-prepared written note of “if police stop us, say that we are friends”. There’s not much we can do apart from google translating back to him to say that we will not lie to the police. We contact the hotel to say WTF and helpfully, they deny even organising the taxi for us.

There’s a police checkpoint around 15 minutes before Sarande, he stops before the checkpoint and says we must stay in the layby until the police leave. We finally persuade him to go through the checkpoint, the police don’t stop us and we’re the final run to our hotel in Sarande. Our “Taxi” driver however has other ideas and decides to ignore one-way streets and going a very long way around as we suspect that he spotted another police car.

Finally we get to our hotel. Our guy parked on the pavement – well, we were going down the wrong way on a one-way street, so he needed to park somewhere. Quite ironically, he parked on the pavement right next to Sarande port police station.

Quite appropriately since we’re a little shaken, not stirred, we seek out a bar that does cocktails. And we seem to have hit happy hour as they charged us nearly half price. They were excellent and went back there again the next night. All is okay with the world again.

Not much to report on our three days in Sarande apart from eating good seafood, seeing the sea again for the first time since Hoi An in Vietnam and of course, those cocktails. And, of course, time to see another Albanian homage to an American politician – this time it was Hillary Clinton.

Sarande was chosen is our entry point to Greece as it’s just a half hour ferry to Corfu, but is a pleasant enough place to spend three days. Just don’t inadvertently take an unofficial taxi there.

Three days in Tirana with the Best Woman and (we’re calling it) the Best Man

We’re back in Europe and back within easy-ish reach of most of those we know and love. Chloe forms one third of that exclusive dining society, Wine Club (where there is sauvignon blanc and nachos to be tried, there you will find them). The other two thirds are Abdi and Faye and, as the minutes of the last meeting show, after much debate they concluded ‘let’s go to Tirana!’

It was beyond wonderful to see them. We were a bit concerned that we’d forgotten how to spend time with other people but should have remembered how easy they both are to be around. This weekend, Wine Club has four members.

Thinking they might be a bit knackered after their journey, we left the first night open but, troopers to the end, they decided to meet us at a bar in town. A couple of Aperols and a cheese plate? Why not. We all took it easy though – big day tomorrow.

You surely cannot conduct Wine Club on Tour without a trip to a vineyard? On the way, we saw a cow.

Kantina Shehi sits about 10km southeast of Tirana. Just 20 minutes in a cab and there are more mountains, green hills, and picturesque views than you can shake a stick at. We are welcomed by Enver, who shows us round the small estate and explains that, while currently owned by five brothers, not so long ago it was part of a huge state-owned agricultural collective. After the communist regime was ousted in the early 90s, people descended on places like this – literally pulling them up by the roots and exorcising demons in the process. As a result, vineyards like Kantina Shehi are still relatively youthful, though Albania has a long history of winemaking.

The fields and process were fascinating. Our host absolutely loved Faye. And the wine tasting was, in fact, an enormous feast. We tasted two reds and two whites (one award-winning) and all were delicious. The shared favourite was, surprisingly, the chardonnay.

After so much, ahem, culture, an afternoon nap was in order. We met Faye and Abdi at their hotel that evening and, somehow, managed to sip and chat our way through two more bottles of wine.

Saturday dawned hot (again). We had toyed with the idea of visiting the modern history museum based in an old nuclear bunker but a) Abdi definitely does NOT do tunnels and b) he brought champagne. Anyway, what’s time spent with friends for if not to catch up on the latest?

On the way to dinner, we skirted through Skanderbeg Square. One erudite man on a bench, refreshing himself with a can of beer, had a moment of blinding clarity. He stood up and declared to Faye, ‘you are the BEST woman!’ We could only agree.

Because they are political nerds, Abdi and Chloe scooted off to quickly see the Albanian Parliament building before dinner with a brief stop in at the Namazgja Mosque. Sadly, it’s hard to get near the, pretty low key, Parliament without pre-booking a tour and recess has just started. Maybe next time. On the other hand, the mosque is spectacular.

Sunday, and the day of Faye and Abdi’s departure, arrived too soon! We did manage to have a lovely outdoor brunch and, since their flight wasn’t until the early evening, a little more wine and snacks at ours.

As a reintroduction to Europe and socialising, and as a sign we are definitely homeward bound, we couldn’t have chosen better companions. There aren’t enough emojis or gifs in the world, guys!

Rejoining Europe

We leave the 40-plus degree heat of Dubai on an early flight direct to Tirana, Albania. Unfortunately, our view is that Fly Dubai is the number one worst airline of the holiday. Cramped seating, staff whom came across as if they don’t give a fig, a silently farting fellow passenger, and re-routing to avoid Iranian or Israeli airspace all resulted in the flight feeling a lot longer than six hours. There were fantastic views over Santorini and other Greek islands, but we were very glad to arrive at the slight madness of Tirana airport.

We plumped on Kruje as our first ever place to visit in Albania. From our research, it seemed a reasonably quiet mountain town with a bit of history, and the accommodation we chose looked pretty good. Kruje delivered on all counts and much more.

First stop in Kruje was for a cheese pie at the magnificently named George W Bush Bakery. Dubya, along with certain other American presidents, are recognised here for their support both in the fall of communism and for the Albanian Kosovo people during the Balkan War. The main bakery man made a visit to Kruje – and has a statue in the next village along.

Moving back in history over 500 years, Kruje was at the centre of the, ultimately successful, Albanian resistance to the all-conquering Ottoman Empire. Albania’s national hero of the time was a magnificently moustached Gjergj Kastrioti aka Skanderbeg. He is still honoured today with many statues in Albania and elsewhere (we must go to Lancaster Gate in London to see one there) and his name on the national brandy. More on the brandy later…hic…

A very slow four days in Kruje involve: recovery from our flight; getting on the right time zone; and visiting the bazaar, castle, and museum. We learn all about the wise words of Skanderbeg and admire the magnificent views from our hotel. Chloe also gets extremely excited by a bust of Pyrrhus that brought back memories of earlier Greek history lessons – he’s the guy who the Pyrrhic victory was named after y’know.

Anyhow, back to brandy. We encounter a few instances of unexpected alcohol in Kruje. First was ordering an apple juice but receiving an Aperol (no complaints there). Then we were given a small bottle of brandy at breakfast by the hotel owner – Skanderbeg brandy of course.

Next day at breakfast after thanking our host for the brandy the day before, he brought us another one, plus a huge triple shot of home made raki for each of us to enjoy. This was at 08:15. We ended a magnificent breakfast slightly squiffy and had to go back to sleep. The next day, we avoid the boozy breakfast even though it was offered.

In keeping with most of the rest of Hardcow Spieltag IV travels, the food here has been top notch and good value: moussaka; veal in tomato, garlic and cottage cheese; lamb; stuffed peppers; and desserts to die for. All have been enjoyed. That, along with the history, the sights and the unexpected booze, has made Kruje one of our new happy places and we hope to come back soon. But maybe next time, we may avoid the raki at 08:15…hic…