We leave the 40-plus degree heat of Dubai on an early flight direct to Tirana, Albania. Unfortunately, our view is that Fly Dubai is the number one worst airline of the holiday. Cramped seating, staff whom came across as if they don’t give a fig, a silently farting fellow passenger, and re-routing to avoid Iranian or Israeli airspace all resulted in the flight feeling a lot longer than six hours. There were fantastic views over Santorini and other Greek islands, but we were very glad to arrive at the slight madness of Tirana airport.

We plumped on Kruje as our first ever place to visit in Albania. From our research, it seemed a reasonably quiet mountain town with a bit of history, and the accommodation we chose looked pretty good. Kruje delivered on all counts and much more.

First stop in Kruje was for a cheese pie at the magnificently named George W Bush Bakery. Dubya, along with certain other American presidents, are recognised here for their support both in the fall of communism and for the Albanian Kosovo people during the Balkan War. The main bakery man made a visit to Kruje – and has a statue in the next village along.

Moving back in history over 500 years, Kruje was at the centre of the, ultimately successful, Albanian resistance to the all-conquering Ottoman Empire. Albania’s national hero of the time was a magnificently moustached Gjergj Kastrioti aka Skanderbeg. He is still honoured today with many statues in Albania and elsewhere (we must go to Lancaster Gate in London to see one there) and his name on the national brandy. More on the brandy later…hic…

A very slow four days in Kruje involve: recovery from our flight; getting on the right time zone; and visiting the bazaar, castle, and museum. We learn all about the wise words of Skanderbeg and admire the magnificent views from our hotel. Chloe also gets extremely excited by a bust of Pyrrhus that brought back memories of earlier Greek history lessons – he’s the guy who the Pyrrhic victory was named after y’know.

Anyhow, back to brandy. We encounter a few instances of unexpected alcohol in Kruje. First was ordering an apple juice but receiving an Aperol (no complaints there). Then we were given a small bottle of brandy at breakfast by the hotel owner – Skanderbeg brandy of course.

Next day at breakfast after thanking our host for the brandy the day before, he brought us another one, plus a huge triple shot of home made raki for each of us to enjoy. This was at 08:15. We ended a magnificent breakfast slightly squiffy and had to go back to sleep. The next day, we avoid the boozy breakfast even though it was offered.

In keeping with most of the rest of Hardcow Spieltag IV travels, the food here has been top notch and good value: moussaka; veal in tomato, garlic and cottage cheese; lamb; stuffed peppers; and desserts to die for. All have been enjoyed. That, along with the history, the sights and the unexpected booze, has made Kruje one of our new happy places and we hope to come back soon. But maybe next time, we may avoid the raki at 08:15…hic…